When a rangefinder reads the first object in its line of view and ignores further objects, the rangefinder is said to be in a first priority mode. If it ignores the first object and sees past it to a more distant object the unit is said to be in a second priority mode.
Priority Differences
The First Priority Rangefinder is extremely useful on the course. If the flag isn't hidden, there is usually nothing between you and it. All rangefinders have the first priority mode. If you want to range at a flag located about 100 yards away, the flag will display 100 and not 130 which could be due to the trees behind the flag.
Second priority rangefinders are more useful for hunting. The second priority rangefinder, as described in the previous paragraph, would read the trees at 130 meters and ignore the flag 30 miles closer. Hunting situations often require you to be in a blind, or partially covered by leaves or limbs. The hunting rangefinder or second priority rangefinder would ignore any object within its line of sight, such as branches, and instead read the closest object, which could be a deer.
You can use a rangefinder (first priority), for hunting. Absolutely. Can you use a hunting rangefinder (second priority) for golf? Certainly. The product that is most appropriate for your purpose will be easier to use and won't require multiple readings or switching modes in order to determine the distance. Some laser rangefinders allow you to switch between second priority modes temporarily using a "bullseye", "pinpoint" button, or semi-permanently by switching priorities semi-permanently.
Distance
Rangefinders are sold and marketed under names that imply the maximum readable distance capable with that unit. This causes the most common misconception that consumers have with these units. One unit might be described as a 1500 yard rangefinder. However, it is only possible under ideal atmospheric conditions and reflective large surfaces.
You may be able, for instance, to range a smooth, white metal pole barn at 1500 feet without too much glare, air pollution, heat waves, and heat waves, even if there is a lot more glare. Add sun or rain or snow or heat mirage, or lessen the size or your target, or darken the color, or increase the texture, then NO! Maybe many hundreds of yards less. In ideal conditions, you might see your pole barn at 1500 feet, a dark, rocky hill at an angle of 1100 yards, and a truck at 900 yard. A tree can be seen at 700 yards. A deer can be seen at 450 yards and a flag at green at even lower distances. A deer can usually be seen at a distance of around one-third the maximum range and nearly always within half the distance. Make sure to check the specifications of your manufacturer.
Reticles and Aiming Points
A reticle is the crosshair (or aiming point or circle) you see when looking through your rangefinder. Some reticles have black lines you can superimpose on the object you wish to range. These reticles can be difficult to see against dark backgrounds or low light conditions, such as shadows. Some reticles (or aiming points or circles) appear illuminated because they are actually LED lights. The brightness of these LEDs is invariably adjustable. There are two problems with LED reticles: in bright light they can be drowned by the ambient lighting so they are difficult to see. In the evening when your eyes adjust to nighttime, the reticles (or circles) are bright enough that they ruin your night vision, even at the lowest settings. You Visit This Link are not able to see past the bright reticle. These issues are not limited to reticles. They also affect other information on your screen, such as yardage numbers or modes.
The best of both worlds, in my opinion, is a black reticle and information with a button for backlighting. Backlighting is less intense than an LED and allows you to see your information in any light condition.